UNDER CONSTRUCTION … PICS TO FOLLOW …
The Butlers … Yellowstone and The Tetons …
Sun, 23rd Jun: Western Big Sky Inn, Deer Lodge, Montana
Three days (at least) on the road are ahead of us to meet up with the Butlers in Victor! We were on the road again after a homemade bagel breakfast in the small kitchenette, we continued east through the state of Washington passing through Moses Lake and Spokane before crossing the border into the state of Idaho. Having previously picked up a subway we stopped for lunch in the town of Coeur D’Alena ……….. Sat in a car park watching the final stages of an Ironman Contest … random eh?
Bellies content we continued east following the Spokane River and had magnificent views of the Couer D’Alena Lake ……… 45mins later at Lookout Pass we were leaving the state of Idaho and were already entering into the upper parts of Montana.
We soon passed through the town of Missoula before looking for a place to stay and came across Deer Lodge the second oldest town in Montana. Having again gone forward one hour to Mountain Time, it was 8pm by the time we found Western Big Sky Inn in the middle of this small town. A very warm and friendly motel, Deer Lodge hotel is located near Rock Creek Lake and the Grant-Kohrs Historic Site – an 1860’s ranch – and within walking distance of Broken Arrow Steakhouse & Casino and other restaurants in town.
Recommended by the proprietors for dinner, we headed to the Broken Arrow. Like most remote places we have visited on this road trip, the Broken Arrow shut at 9pm so it was a quick turnaround after our check in before taking the short walk there. And we were not disappointed 🙂 We enjoy ‘western dining’ surrounded by a large collection of prints depicting ranch life of yesteryear.
Back at the Motel we again watched the TV until the zzzzz’s took hold and fell into a peaceful slumber to rejuvenate the batteries for a day on the road again tomorrow.
Mon, 24th Jun: Pines Guest Haus, Driggs, Idaho
We left Deer Lodge heading south on Highway 90 and it was not long before we were re-acquainted with the gorgeous sight of the Rocky Mountains to the east 🙂 We passed through the town of Butte before continuing south on 287 towards Ennis. This was a simply beautiful drive as we followed the route of the Madison River and the railway all the way to Ennis with the Rocky Mountains on one side and the Madison Range …….. on the other.
At Ennis (Madison County, Montana) we stopped for lunch at ……………. A quaint ‘western’ town with a lot of character and a population of 838.
Refreshed we jumped into the car for the final part of this journey. Continuing south we passed through Beaverhead-Deer Lodge National Forest before skirting past West Yellowstone and Yellowstone National Park where we crossed the border into Idaho again. On Highway 20 we soon passed through Ashton before hitting Highways 32 and 33 for the final push towards Victor. It was on this highway that we had the stunning panorama of the Teton Mountain Range with Grand Teton towering proudly above the rest.
As Bobby was also arriving in Victor today we made the decision to stay overnight in Driggs a mere 5min drive away. A gorgeous location in the Teton Valley with a small population of 1660, nestled at the bottom of The Grand Targhee Ski Resort. The Butlers had taken a 21hr drive to Victor and I for one did not want to impose on their hospitality after such a long time on the road. Hopefully, they would settle into their new rented accommodation overnight and be refreshed for our arrival in the morning 🙂
We check in to Pines Guest Haus – where, as they are fully booked, they offer us Nana’s room in their house! For $40 we were more than pleased and Nancy and John, the proprietors were very kind. The Pines Guest Haus has been in the Nielson family for over 40 years. The atmosphere is that of a small European guesthouse that’s surrounded by an acre of tree-covered lawn. Located on land homesteaded in July 1900 by Leland Monroe Driggs, the Pines Motel was originally a two-story log cabin, built at the turn of the century.
Whilst Nancy prepared the room, Neil and I headed out to a bar, The Royal Wolf …… for some refreshments. We deserved it we reckon after the last three days on the road 🙂 It was a nice friendly bar and we were soon sharing the place with the locals many of whom engaged in conversation with us. There was a good atmosphere and a lot of interest in the game that was on tv – ice hockey; between Boston and Chicago in the latter stages of the Stanley Cup Final.
We walked back to Pines where we checked in and loaded our stuff into our room. I stayed in to ‘wash my hair’ whilst Neil went ‘hunting’ for food! He came back about 9.30pm having revisited the bar and collected our Thai dinner on the way back. It was great and before long we were sleepy so we called it a day excited for tomorrow and the Butlers!
Tue, 25th Jun: Bobby & Anita’s, Big Bear Lane, Teton Valley, Victor, Idaho
We get up late today and head off to O’Rourkes …… for brekkie. It is here we also catch up with the blog of the last few days before hitting the Butler Household … and Victor … Aaaaarrrggghhh!
Victor is the largest city in Teton County and the population was 1,928 at the 2010 census.
At Big Bear Lane there are mountain views in every direction from this adorable home just on the outskirts of downtown Victor. This home, in a three quarter acre lot, has a large loft and windows that capture the incredible views of the surrounding mountains. The large deck at the rear of the property gives views over the ranch to the north and east.
It is an exciting reunion with Bobby and Anita who are eager to hear all about our travels. After a couple of hours relaxing with the family and making ourselves at home, we all head to a friend’s house for tea. Anita’s friend Price, and her family set up home in Victor many years ago. She and her husband Patrick have been building their own home over the last two years and live there with their 4 year old daughter Railen. When we arrive we are greeted by Price, Railen and Dorothy (Patrick’s Mum).
House
Friendly
Hospitality
Tennessee horses
Property high in mountainside … Established
Chat bed
Wed, 26th Jun: Bobby & Anita’s, Big Bear Lane, Teton Valley, Victor, Idaho
Laundry
Bobby cam and Vaughn cafe brekkie work
Anita and kids boots shopping
Neil and I bike ride round Victor … Hit The Station for wifi fix … Kids mum n dad
The Station is a quaint friendly cafe in sleepy Victor … ‘through the simple values of friendliness, honesty, quality and service, they seek to nourish the heart of their beloved community’.
Back at the house we meet up with Bobby and the boys and head off for an afternoon hike. Bobby takes us to the top of the Teton Valley Pass where we could see stunning views of Jackson (Hole) and Wilson and the surrounding mountains. There were numerous trails and we took off on one called The History Trail. Our trail suddenly stopped and interestingly we climbed directly up the steep mountainside to join another one. We were treated to a bit of ‘playtime’ in an area of snow before continuing on the ridge towards the forest. All in all we were out walking for 3hrs before driving the switch back road down into Wilson, Wyoming (another state added to those already visited on this road trip) on the other side of the Teton Valley – the only valley in two states! Here we hung out at The Stagecoach refreshing ourselves. The boys (including Neil) enjoying some tom foolery thinking it was cool to throw hats on the roof lol. A good time was had before Bobby finally called time on the proceedings as he needed to head off to Jackson Airport to pick up his nephews. Joey (18) and Christian (15) are joining the Butlers for the summer and have arrived in time to go to the Rainbow Gathering with them.
Whilst Bobby and the boys head off to the airport, Neil and I drive into Jackson to admire its beauty but also to reward ourselves with views of the Tetons on our drive back to the pass and back via Wilson to Victor. We decided to call into Knotty Pine
The Knotty Pine …. Anita.
Bobby came back with Joey and Christian
Music night
Teton Valley : “best of both states … Idaho and Wyoming”
Thu, 27th Jun: Bobby & Anita’s, Big Bear Lane, Teton Valley, Victor, Idaho
Investigate and explore Yellowstone and Teton National Parks. Book 2 nights accommodation at Lake Lodge, Yellowstone (29th/30th June) and will look at booking 1st July at Teton over the next couple of days.
We sat and made further use of the wifi to look into our plans for the next month or so. We have left the Butlers at the house today whilst they make preparations for their trip tomorrow to Montana for the Rainbow Gathering. They all seem upbeat and keen to start their trip tomorrow. This means that they will have time over the weekend to set up for the beginning of the gathering which officially starts on Monday. So all is good and they are looking forward to it 🙂
We need to make contact with some of the accommodations and bookings we have looked at so we decide to head back to the house to use Bobby’s phone. On our way back we call into Fitzgerald’s Bicycles where Neil asks them to look at the gears on Bobby’s bike. They do so and for no charge!!!! There are so many positives to living in a small community like this 🙂 🙂 🙂 Everybody is so helpful, friendly and hospitable. All being well, the Butlers will be settling into a lovely part of the world.
With the Butlers departure tomorrow, we cycle into Driggs to pick up some credit for Neil’s phone … we will definitely need our own after they have gone. 16 mile round trip on a great cycle path.
Our last afternoon early evening is spent at the first of the summer weekly music festivals in Victor’s small city park 🙂 … Music on Main ………….
Back at house …. Trading / preparing amongst the boys. Gift us some neat crystals (from Arkensaw) … Many treasures …
Shattered we fall into bed by midnight
Fri, 28th Jun: Bobby & Anita’s, Big Bear Lane, Teton Valley, Victor, Idaho
The Butlers departure to Rainbow. A mammoth task was undertaken and they finally got on the road at 1.00pm. It was a fond farewell
Neil and I spent the afternoon relaxing before driving into Driggs for the rodeo
Leaving at 10.00pm we caught the garage before it closed and got ourselves a pizza for supper. Then it was off to bed … Yellowstone National Park tomorrow … Yay, back on the adventure trail 🙂
Sat, 29th Jun: Lake Lodge Pioneer Cabin, Yellowstone National Park (Idaho/Montana/Wyoming)
We have a lazy morning preparing for our trip to Yellowstone. We left Victor heading north and soon picked up Highway 20 towards West Yellowstone. This route gave us stunning views again of the Teton Range in all its glory. We crossed into the state of Wyoming and into West Yellowstone. From here we followed the directions to the park and we were soon showing our Annual Pass at the park entrance. Just before the park entrance we saw our first bit of wildlife … the beautiful Pronghorn ………
The pronghorn (Antilocapra americana) is a species of artiodactyl mammal endemic to interior western and central North America. Though not an antelope, it is often known colloquially in North America as the prong buck, pronghorn antelope, or simply antelope,[3] as it closely resembles the true antelopes of the Old World and fills a similar ecological niche due to convergent evolution.[4] It is the only surviving member of the family Antilocapridae.[5] During the Pleistocene period, 12 antilocaprid species existed in North America.[6] About five existed when humans entered North America[citation needed] and all but A. americana are now extinct.[5]
Pronghorns form mixed-sex herds in the winter. In early spring the herds break up with young males forming bachelor groups, females forming their groups and adult males living a solitary life.[19] There are female bands which share the same summer range and bachelor male bands form between spring and fall. Females form dominance hierarchies with few circular relationships.[20] Dominant females will aggressively displace other females from feeding sites.
Juvenile (“fawn”) in New Mexico.
Adult male pronghorns employ two different mating strategies during the breeding season. A pronghorn male will defend a fixed territory that females may enter or it might defend a harem of females. A pronghorn may change mating strategies depending on environmental or demographic conditions.[19] In areas that have high precipitation, adult male pronghorn tend to be territorial and maintain their territories with scent marking, vocalizing and challenging intruders.[21] In these systems, territorial males have access to better resources than bachelor males.[21] Females also employ different mating strategies. “Sampling” females will visit several males and remain with each for a short time before switching to the next male, at an increasing rate as oestrus approaches. “Inciting” females will behave as samplers until oestrus and then incite conflicts between males. The females watch and then mate with the winners. “Quiet” females will remain with a single male in an isolated area throughout oestrus.[22]
When courting an estrous female, a male pronghorn will approach her while softly vocalizing[19] and waving his head side to side, displaying his cheek patches.[23] A receptive female will remain motionless and sniff his scent gland and then allow the male to mount her.[19] Pronghorns have a gestation period of 235 days, longer than is typical for North American ungulates. They breed in mid-September, and the doe carries her fawn until late May. This is around six weeks longer than the white-tailed deer. Newborn pronghorns weigh 2–4 kg, most commonly 3 kg. In their first 21–26 days, a fawn spends time hiding in vegetation.[21] Fawns interact with their mothers for 20–25 minutes a day and this continues even when the fawn joins a nursery.[21] The females nurse, groom, and lead their young to food and water as well as keep predators away from them.[21] Males are weaned 2–3 weeks earlier than females.[21] Sexual maturity is reached at 15 to 16 months, though males rarely breed until 3 years old. The longevity is typically up to 10 years, rarely 15 years.[7][8][9]
yellowstone
Yellowstone National Park in the northwest United States is home to a large variety of mammals, birds, fish, reptiles and amphibians, many of which migrate within the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem. These Animals of Yellowstone, especially larger mammals, birds and fish are a major park attraction. Since the creation of the park in 1872, 318 species of birds have been documented within its boundaries. Although Yellowstone is not a birding mecca because of its high altitude and cold winters, it is home to a variety of interesting bird species that attract visitor attention every year. The park has a good resident population of birds and we were lucky enough to see a Bald Eagle, Ospreys, Mountain Bluebirds and Sandhill Cranes. The extensive rivers, lakes and wetlands are summer homes to large numbers of waterfowl, while the forests and meadows host many different species of warblers, sparrows and other passerine birds.
We are handed much literature on the park which explains that Yellowstone National Park inspires awe in travellers from around the world. New Zealand and Iceland are known for geysers, but nowhere are there as many as in Yellowstone. At the heart of Yellowstone’s past, present and future lies volcanism. About 2 million years ago, then 1.3 million years ago, and again 640,000 years ago, huge volcanic eruptions occurred here. The latest spewed out 240 cubic miles of debris. The central part of what is now the park collapsed, forming a 30×45 mile caldera or basin. The magmatic heat powering those eruptions still powers the park’s geysers, hot springs, fumaroles and mudpots. The Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone River gives a deeper view of these forces; its waterfalls highlight the boundaries of lava flows and thermal areas. Rugged mountains flank the park’s volcanic plateau rewarding eye and spirit.
Yellowstone’s wildlife includes bison, elk, grizzly and black bears, wolves, trumpeter swans, and cutthroat trout. vegetation types range from near-desert vegetation at the North Entrance to subalpine meadow and forest on Mt Washburn. Lodgepole Pine covers 60 per cent of the park and makes up 80 per cent of the forested areas.
USA’s very first national park is HUGE! ……………..
Fort Yellowstone – The Army Years 1886-1918:
For the decade after Yellowstone National Park was established in 1872, the park was under serious threat from those who would exploit, rather than protect its resources. Poachers killed animals. Souvenir hunters broke large pieces of the geysers and hot springs. Developers set up camps for tourists near hot springs, along with bath and laundry facilities in the hot springs. In response, Civilian Superintendents were hired to preserve and protect this land. Their experience and intentions varied, and they were all under funded and under staffed. Word got back to Congress that the park was in trouble, but legislators refused to appropriate any funds for the park’s administration in 1886!
Yellowstone National Park turned to the US Army for help. In 1886, men from Company M, First United States Cavalry, Fort Custer, Montana Territory came to Yellowstone under the command of Captain Moses Harris. They began what would be 32 years of military presence in the park.
At first the soldiers lived in temporary framed buildings at Camp Sheridan at the foot of the Mammoth Hot Springs Terraces. After enduring 5 cold, harsh winters, the army realised there was no end in sight to this assignment. Therefore, in 1890 Congress appropriated 50,000 dollars for a permanent post.
The first buildings of Fort Yellowstone, at the far end of the street from today’s Albright Visitor Centre, were finished by late 1891. There were two duplex officers quarters, a guard house, and a headquarters building on the front row, a barracks on the second row, a stables on the third row and two non commissioned officers quarters in the final row. An almost identical set of buildings was finished in 1897 to house a second troop. In 1909, scottish stonemasons and a force of other workers began constructing 7 large sandstone buildings using standard military plans in the colonial revival style. The buildings provide the fort with a distinctive and substantial character. They represent the army’s attempt to live up to a substantial commitment and to provide a model post for visitors. The chapel, built of sandstone, in 1913 was the final building constructed during the army’s tenure. The stone for these buildings was obtained from a quarry between the Gardner River and the Mammoth Campground.
In 1910 at the height of the army’s presence in Yellowstone, there were 324 soldiers here plus some families and numerous civilian employees. These troops staffed Fort Yellowstone and the park’s outposts. From these outposts, the cavalry patrolled the park on skis during the winter, stopping at patrol cabins along the way. These buildings still standing today remind us of the long history of USA’s first National Park and the important role the army played in preserving it for the future.
On entering the park we headed east following the Madison River and at Madison we headed north towards the Norris Geyser Basin. We stopped at Gibbon Falls where Neil took some photos before we proceeded on towards Norris. Just past Beryl’s Spring we came across our first animal jam!!!! We jumped out of the car excitedly crossing the road into the field next to the river where we saw our first Bull Elk … and what a proud example he was! Elk are the most abundant large mammal found in Yellowstone. Yellowstone National Park was established in 1872, when market hunting of all large grazing animals was rampant. Not until after 1886, when the United States Army was called in to protect the park and wildlife slaughter was brought under control, did the large animals increase in number.
More than 30,000 elk from 7-8 different herds summer in Yellowstone and approximately 15,000 to 22,000 winter in the park.
Adult males, or bulls, range upwards of 700 pounds while females, or cows, average 500-525 pounds and they usually live about 15 years in the wild.
Bulls grow antlers annually from the time they are nearly one year old. When mature, a bull’s “rack” may have 6 to 8 points or tines on each side and weigh more than 30lbs.
Having continued on to Norris we stopped and called into the museum and the information station where we had the privilege of seeing the spot of the world’s biggest geyser; the Steamboat. However, this has not erupted since 2005!
From Norris we continued heading east to Canyon Village where you get to view the ‘Grand Canyon’ of the Yellowstone River! It is picture postcard beautiful. The upper and lower falls of the Yellowstone River add to the grandeur of this unique, natural treasure. We drove along North Rim Drive and our first stop was at a trail called The Brink of the Lower Falls…………. This switchback trail took us right down to the brink where every second an average of 37,417 gallons of water plunges 380ft over the lower falls!!!!! It is a sight to behold … a real mini Niagra Falls! From this trail we could also see views of the Upper Falls. After a hike back to the top, we continue by car to Lookout Point……….. It was here that we found an Osprey Nest at the top of a steep rock formation protruding from the Canyon. Looking through our camera we thought we saw an Osprey sitting on the nest and thought that this was the actual chick. Not long after standing there, we saw an adult bird returning to the nest and we assumed it was to feed the single chick. However to our delight, a fellow traveller had set up his telescopic sight and through this we were able to witness both adult birds feeding their 3 very young chicks (we think about 1 week old) … this was an amazing sight and something we will never ever witness again. We also saw a Bald Eagle circling the nest hoping to steal a chick or two or catch the Osprey’s hard earned prey!!!! Just amazing!
Osprey in Yellowstone National Park
The Osprey population of Yellowstone National Park continues to show signs of a serious downward trend over the last six years. Cutthroat trout, a major food source for Ospreys, have severely declined on Yellowstone Lake due to the predominance of a non-native lake trout. At a spot on the lake where more than 70,000 cutthroats were counted in the 1970s, a mere 470 were tallied in recent years, the lowest number since record keeping began in 1945.
Other factors in the decline of the Osprey include a 2003 wildfire on Frank Island, in the middle of Yellowstone Lake. The fire burned 570 of the island’s 600 acres, wiping out nearly all the old-growth trees that were a popular spot for nesting ospreys.
The Osprey population of Yellowstone Lake are not dying out but they have likely flown to areas outside of the park to feed in a more abundantly stocked body of water and to nest in the tall trees that they prefer. Listen for their call, it is a series of sharp whistles, described as cheep, cheep or yewk, yewk. Near their nest, the call is a frenzied cheereek!
Osprey (Pandion Haliaetus)
The Osprey is a large bird of prey or raptor weighing about three to four pounds. It is about 24 inches in length with a wingspan of up to six feet. The upper parts of the bird are a deep, glossy brown, while the breast is white and sometimes streaked with brown, and the under parts are pure white. The head is white with a dark mask across the eyes, reaching to the sides of the neck. The osprey’s eyes are golden to brown and the bill is mostly black.
The Osprey’s diet consists almost exclusively of fish. It has evolved specialised physical characteristics and exhibits some unique behaviours to assist in hunting and catching prey. The osprey’s keen vision can sight fish from 32-130 feet above the water. After is prey is sighted the bird hovers momentarily then plunges feet first into the water. It is able to dive to a depth of 3.3 feet the bird has nostrils that close to keep out water during dives.
The Osprey’s feet have black talons which have backward facing scales that act as barbs to help hold its catch. It has a short tail and long, narrow wings with four long, finger-like feathers and a shorter fifth. The sexes appear fairly similar, but the adult male can be distinguished from the female by its slimmer body and narrower wings. The breast band of the male is not a noticeable as that of the under wing areas of the male are more uniformly pale. It is easy to determine the sex in a breeding pair, but harder with individual birds.
Osprey typically build their nests of sticks on the forks of trees, rocky outcrops, utility poles, artificial platforms or offshore islets. They prefer to be near fresh water lakes.
Generally, Ospreys reach sexual maturity and begin breeding around the age of three to four years. If there are no nesting sites available, young Ospreys may be forced to delay breeding. To encourage nesting, posts may be erected to provide more sites suitable for nest building.
Ospreys usually mate for life. In spring the pair begins a five-month period of partnership to raise their young. The female lays two to four eggs within a month, and relies on the size of the nest to conserve heat. The eggs are whitish with bold splotches of reddish-brown and are about 2.4 x 1.8 inches, and weigh about 2.4 ounces. The eggs are incubated for about five weeks to hatching.
The newly hatched chicks weigh only two ounces, but fledge in eight to ten weeks. When food is scarce, the first chicks to hatch are most likely to survive. The juvenile Osprey may be identified by buff fringes to the plumage of the upper parts, a buff tone to the under parts, and streaked feathers on the head. During spring, barring on the wings and flight feathers is a better indicator of a young bird, due to wear on the upper parts.
The typical lifespan of an Osprey is 20–25 years. In North America owls and bald are the only major predators of both nests and young adults.
Osprey in the Past and Future
In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, the Osprey population was threatened by egg collectors and the hunting of the adult birds. Osprey populations declined drastically in many areas in the 1950s and 1960s which was due, in part, to the toxic effects of insecticides such as DDT on their reproductive cycle. The pesticide interfered with the bird’s calcium metabolism which resulted in thin-shelled, easily broken or infertile eggs.
Possibly because of the banning of DDT in the early 1970s, together with reduced persecution, Osprey have made significant recoveries. Artificial nesting platforms are common in areas where preservationists are working to re-establish the birds.
Sadly, the Osprey habitat in Yellowstone Park is declining. Tree nest site instability coupled with weather continues to play a major role in influencing Osprey productivity in the park. Frank Island is a major Osprey production area on Yellowstone Lake, but after a the fire of in 2003 only one breeding has pair nested here in the last three years and fledged only one young per year.
In 2006, a mere 23 young fledged from 41 nests, compared to only 15 young fledging from 48 nests in 2005, and 19 young fledging from 54 nests in 2004. This represents the fourth lowest production experienced in the last 20 years of collecting detailed osprey population data.
Eagles and ospreys frequent similar habitats and sometimes battle for food. Eagles often force osprey to drop fish that they have caught and steal them in midair. The incidence of Bald Eagles taking over Osprey nest sites has been observed on numerous occasions. Monitoring the population dynamics of Ospreys and other fish-reliant bird species is especially important as we chart lake trout numbers over time.
bald eagle
More than a dozen raptor species can be seen in Yellowstone. Three-peregrine falcons, bald eagles, osprey-are carefully monitored. The peregrine falcon and eagle were formerly on the federal list of endangered and threatened species. Their monitoring is required by law. The fish-eating osprey is being monitored because it is especially vulnerable as cutthroat trout decline in Yellowstone Lake.
NPS/Peaco
Bald Eagle
Haliaeetus leucocephalus
Monitored since the 1980s, when the bald eagle was placed on the federal list of threatened species, Yellowstone’s population of bald eagles is relatively stable. In 2007, it was removed from the federal threatened species list, and monitoring continues. Each year, 40 to 60 percent of nests succeed (produce eggs), with each nesting pair producing an average of 0.71 eaglets (average from 1987-2012). These statistics are slightly lower than expected for a stable and healthy population, and may be explained by the park’s harsh environment, especially during the early breeding season (February-April).
Identification
Large, dark bird; adult (four or five years old) has completely white head and tail
Females larger than males, as is true with most predatory birds
Immature bald eagles show varying amounts of white; they can be mistaken for golden eagles
Finding Bald Eagles in Yellowstone
We had further stunning views of the canyon from Grand View Lookout …….. and Inspiration Point…….. On the way back to the main road, we stopped at Glacial Boulder … this enormous boulder came from the Baretooth Plateau, which is beyond the north east corner of the park approximately 50 miles away! As the glacier scraped down from these mountains it deposited this and other boulders!
At this point we decide to head south towards our overnight accommodation at Lake Village. On the way we saw our first Bison and it was at this point that we had a piece of luck. Turning around to get a better picture of the animal, we came across another animal jam … this time a ‘grizzly bear jam’!!!!!!!! There it was in all its glory delving into dandelions at the edge of the forest. Amazingly, whilst taking pictures of this beautiful creature, Neil alerted me to the fact that a Coyote had just crossed the road 50 yards in front of him. Quickly running across the road, I was able to take a few pictures of the Coyote running across the field before it disappeared from view.
Yellowstone’s coyotes are among the largest coyotes in the United States; adults average about 30lbs and some weigh around 40lbs. Coyotes live an average of about 6 years, although one Yellowstone coyote lived to be more than 13 before she was killed and eaten by a cougar. The coyote is a common predator in the park, often seen alone or in packs, travelling through the park’s wide open valleys hunting small mammals. But they are widely distributed and their sign can also be found in the forests and thermal areas throughout Yellowstone. They are capable of killing large prey, especially when they cooperatively hunt.
The grizzly bear population within the Yellowstone ecosystem is estimated to be approximately 280-610 bears. The current estimate of the black bear population is 500-650 bears. Cutthroat trout are an important late-spring and early-summer food source for bears and may provide bears the opportunity to regain body mass after den emergence and help females with cubs meet the energetic demands of lactation. The average lifespan of a grizzly bear in Yellowstone is about 22 years, and the average lifespan of a Yellowstone black bear is about 17.
In 1970, the park took a gamble and initiated an intensive bear management program. The objectives of this change was restoring the grizzly bear and black bear populations to subsistence on natural forage and reducing bear-caused injuries to humans. As part of the bear management program implemented in 1970, regulations prohibiting the feeding of bears were strictly enforced. Some experts believed that the bears would not survive this change. As the bears became more desperate for food and more aggressive, more of them were encountered in camps and had to be destroyed. In the next several years, over 100 grizzly bears had to be put down, and the park bear population was on the brink of extinction. On July 28, 1975, under the authority of the Endangered Species Act, the United States Fish and Wildlife Service listed the grizzly bear in the lower 48 states as a threatened species.
Over the next several decades, the bears learned to hunt and forage for themselves from non-human food sources, and their population slowly grew. On March 22, 2007, grizzly bears were taken off of the Endangered Species list. In the 30 years since the grizzly was listed as a threatened species, the Yellowstone population increased from 126 to 500. “The grizzly is a large predator that requires a great deal of space, and conserving such animals is a challenge in today’s world,” Deputy Interior Secretary Lynn Scarlett said in announcing the decision. “I believe all Americans should be proud that, as a nation, we had the will and the ability to protect and restore this symbol of the wild.”
Before heading to Lake Village, we had a short drive along the South Rim where we stopped at the Upper Falls Viewpoint ………. This easy walk took us to two viewpoints of the upper falls which drops 109ft over a lip of volcanic rock. Continuing south we found ourselves following the Yellowstone River which was an amazing sight as it opened out into a wide plateau called the Hayden Valley. Simply beautiful. It was here that we came across yet another animal jam as a herd of Bison were crossing the road making their way to the river below. This was awesome as there were many calves following the herd.
We soon arrived at Lake Village, checked in and got our keys to our cabin. C16 was our cabin number and we were very pleased with our room for the next two nights. Exhausted by the days events (lol) I had forty winks whilst Neil went out to explore the Yellowstone Lake area. Bless him, he came back an hour or so later laden with goodies and our supper !!!!! Bellies full all that was left to do today was sower and fall into a good night’s sleep 🙂
Sun, 30th Jun: Lake Lodge Pioneer Cabin, Yellowstone National Park
A relaxing morning results in brunch at the Diner at Yellowstone Lake General Store. Another gorgeous hot and sunny day awaits us as we embark on further exploration of Yellowstone. Today we are heading to Old Faithful ……………………
En route we come across another Bull Elk … this time just munching not 30feet in front of us amongst the trees. More great pictures are taken before recommencing our 38mile journey through Yellowstone to Old Faithful. At West Thumb we head west towards Old Faithful and are soon driving over Craig Pass. We arrive at Old Faithful Centre at a perfect time as the geyser is only minutes away from erupting.
The largest concentration of geysers in the world is here in the upper geyser basin. Old Faithful erupts more frequently than any of the other big geysers, although it is not the largest or most regular geyser in the park. Its average interval between eruptions is about 93 minutes, varying from 50 to 127 minutes. An eruption lasts one and a half to five minutes, expels 3,700-8,400 gallons of boiling water and reaches a height of between 106 and 184 feet!
After the eruption we get the bikes out of the car and cycle along the upper geyser basin passing many large and small geysers along the route. One spectacular moment is when we pass the magnificent cone of Castle Geyser, an unpredictable geyser. This only erupts spectacularly as we head towards it … what a bonus … very impressive indeed! The cone of Castle Geyser is thousands of years old and rests upon even older platforms. Together, they form one of the largest sinter formations in the world. Castle Geyser is presently erupting only every 14 hours and we were extremely fortunate to witness its eruption today.
Our bike ride then follows the Fire Hole River. Situated on the bank of this river, Riverside Geyser is one of the most picturesque and predictable geysers in the park. During its 20minute eruptions, a 75ft column of water arches gracefully over the river. Unfortunately, we did not have the opportunity of witnessing this today. Instead we continue on our cycle ride of the Upper Geyser Basin and, leaving the main trail head off onto a designated bicycle trail through the clearing into the forest. Nervous and isolated out here we shouted ‘hey bear’ as we continued through this Daisy Geyser cut-off trail to the Grand Loop Road. To our relief the only wildlife we came across was the pretty awesome Mountain Bluebird as she flitted to and fro around her nest in the tree.
Once on the Grand Loop Road and heading back to Old Faithful we stopped off at Black Sand Basin. Named for sand derived from black volcanic grass (obsidian), this basin featured some of the most splendid hot springs in Yellowstone. We were amazed by Emerald Pool, Rainbow Pool and Sunset Lake. Sunset Lake is actually a geyser, but its eruptions are infrequent (like Neil’s pmsl) and seldom noticed because of the heavy steam over the water!
Leaving here we were soon back at the Old Faithful area and headed for the Old Faithful Inn for refreshments …………………….. Here we had a few beers in this historic building and Neil sampled the delights of Bison Bratwurst Sausage and Pheasant & Chicken Sausage with mashed potato, sauerkraut and mustard …NOM NOM NOM 🙂 Before heading off we had a stroll around this impressive and beautiful place. The only part not accessible was the Crow’s Nest 😦 Thought to be the realisation of one of architect Robert Reamer’s childhood fantasies, the Crow’s Nest rises 76.5ft to the ceiling of the Old Faithful Inn. During the early years of the Inn an orchestra would play in this room at the top and spectators would watch from the various landings as guests danced on the lobby floor below, On August 17th, 1959, an earthquake measuring 7.5 on the Richter Scale, rocked Yellowstone Park. The trembles twisted some of the supporting timber for the Crow’s Nest, making it unsafe for the number of guests that currently visit the Inn.
I take to the wheel for the drive back to Lake Village and the journey is another stunning one with a Marmot and herds of Bison the only (lol) animals spotted along the way.
Bison are the largest grazing mammals in Yellowstone National Park. They are strictly vegetarian, a grazer of grasslands and sedges in the meadows, the foothills, and even the high-elevation, forested plateaus of Yellowstone. Bison males, called bulls, can weigh upwards of 1,800lbs. Females (cows) average about 1,300lbs. Both stand approximately six feet tall at the shoulder, and can move with surprising speed to defend their young or when approached too closely by people. Bison breed from mid-July to mid-August, and bear one calf in April and May.
Yellowstone is the only place in the lower 48 states where a population of wild American bison has persisted since prehistoric times, although fewer than 50 native bison remained there in 1902. Fearing extinction, the park imported 21 bison from two privately owned herds, as foundation stock for a bison ranching project that spanned 50 years at the Lamar Buffalo Ranch in Yellowstone’s Lamar Valley. Activities there included irrigation, hay-feeding, roundups, culling, and predator control, to artificially ensure herd survival. By the 1920s, some intermingling of the introduced and wild bison had begun. With protection from poaching, the native and transplanted populations increased. In 1936, bison were transplanted to historic habitats in the Firehole River and Hayden Valley. In 2003, the entire population numbered 1,477. Bison were trapped and herds periodically reduced until 1967, when only 397 bison were counted parkwide. All bison herd reduction activities were phased out after 1966, again allowing natural ecological processes to determine bison numbers and distribution. Presently, the park’s bison population is estimated at about 4,000.
Bison are nomadic grazers, wandering high on Yellowstone’s grassy plateaus in summer. Despite their slow gait, bison are surprisingly fast for animals that weigh more than half a ton. In winter, they use their large heads like a plow to push aside snow and find winter food. In the park interior where snows are deep, they winter in thermally influenced areas and around the geyser basins. Bison also move to winter range in the northern part of Yellowstone.
It is 6.00pm when we get to Lake Lodge and we decide to sit on the verandah here overlooking the lake with a few beverages whilst catching up with our blogging. A very nice ‘office’ indeed!
Mon, 1st Jul: Big Bear Lane, Victor, Idaho
After checking out of the Lake Lodge Hotel and grabbing a quick coffee we said a fond farewell to Yellowstone and by 8.00am were on the road. Heading south along the edge of Yellowstone Lake it was not long before we came across the first wildlife of the day … a hare ran out across the road in front of us, lol! Shortly afterwards we came across an amazing photo opportunity … a very handsome Bull Elk was stood at the roadside with the lake as a backdrop … a simply stunning moment on film!
We continued through the West Thumb Geyser Basin now following the Lewis River which took us past Lewis Lake. We exited Yellowstone at the South entrance and hust before doing so encountered a mule deer, a deer who gets its name from its large mule-like ears!!!! In Yellowstone mule deer are commonly found in forests, grasslands and shrublands. Once at the entrance, we took the opportunity to stop and take some shots of the Welcome Sign and here on the Snake River we spotted a pair of Sandhill Cranes with two chicks. The Sandhill Crane is a species of large crane of North America and extreme northeastern Siberia migrating here for the summer.
After a 15min drive down the John D Rockefeller, Jr. Memorial Parkway we entered into the magnificent Grand Teton National Park in northwestern Wyoming. At approximately 310,000 acres, the park includes the major peaks of the 40-mile-long Teton Range as well as most of the northern sections of the valley known as Jackson Hole. It is 10 miles south of Yellowstone connected by the National Park Service-managed John D. Rockefeller, Jr. Memorial Parkway. Along with surrounding National Forests, these three protected areas constitute the almost 18,000,000-acre Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem, one of the largest intact mid-latitude temperate ecosystems in the world.
The youngest mountain range in the Rocky Mountains, the Teton Range began forming between 6 to 9 million years ago. In 1929 the National Park was established, protecting the major peaks of the Teton Range, and now includes the valley of Jackson Hole. It is named for Grand Teton, the tallest mountain at 13,775 feet which abruptly rises more than 7,000 feet above Jackson Hole, almost 850 feet higher than Mount Owen, the second-highest summit in the range. The park is an almost pristine ecosystem and the same species of flora and fauna that have existed since prehistoric times can still be found there.
We soon found ourselves driving along the shores of Jackson Lake, past Lizard Creek, Leeks Marina and Colter Bay Village before stopping at the Jackson Lake Lodge………… This was a superb stop off … the building was stunning and the rear of the Lodge opened up onto Jackson Lake and marvellous panoramic views of the Teton Mountain Range of the Rockies. On this gorgeous hot sunny day the mountains were reflected beautifully in the lake. This view was the best one by far that we had of the Tetons!
We took the opportunity of this stop off to stretch our legs on a one hour walk ……..
After this we sat in the Lodge and made use of their wifi. We had really gone to ground over the last few days as wifi was virtually non existent in the remote places we had visited. It was great to catch up with the kids and Mum n Dad 🙂 They were all at Mum n Dads getting ready to go out for Jack’s birthday meal. Everybody was in fine form and all was well although Mum was feeling a bit under the weather 😦 but said it was nothing to worry about.
We got back on the road with a sandwich to go having decided to drive up the summit of Signal Mountain……….. This offered aerial views of the Teton Valley on one side … Marvellous … and awesome views of the mountains on the other. A really great detour !!!
Once back down the steep switchbacks we continued south and stopped at another beautiful place called Jenny Lake. Here the mountains were literally in top of us providing yet another outstanding view. Shortly after we were leaving the park via the south entrance and took the Moose-Wilson Road ……… Rather than staying on the main highway. This small dirt track of a road took us out of the park towards Wilson. We stopped halfway at Teton Village………. where the beautiful skiing resort of Jackson Hole is situated.
Having made good time (now 3.00pm) we soaked up the atmosphere at this beautiful setting in the ………………..Moose. After partaking of a few beverages we explored this exquisite affluent area before making our way back to Victor over the magnificent Teton Pass. This pass takes you from one side of the mountain range to the other and, in the process, we cross from Wyoming back into Idaho.
We are soon back in Victor and call in at The Grumpy Goat ………….. where we eat and drink the rest of the daylight away.
As the sun set over the countryside surrounding our property in Big Bear Lane, we relaxed with a beer in the hot tub before falling into bed. A perfect ending to another superb day in the pitkinsaroundtheworld saga.
Tue, 2nd Jul: Big Bear Lane, Victor, Idaho
Loving the fact that we have a ‘home’ for now, we are making the most of this opportunity to relax in this environment.
We have a very lazy morning being very domesticated (its been a while, lol) before heading off to Driggs for much needed haircuts followed by a brunch at O’Rourkes.
During the afternoon we drive the 12 miles to the Grand Targhee National Forest and small ski resort. Once more this is a drive up a steep mountainous road which offers us unbelievable of the Teton Valley below. Very rewarding indeed. Once at the top we sat with a few cold cokes and water (yes, no alcohol!) in an effort to stay cool … Temperatures were soaring again today.
As in Whistler, the activity here during the summer months is mountain biking and we watch some folks prepare themselves before boarding the ski lifts with their bikes. Once at the top they will ride back down the side of the mountain … thrill-seekers the lot of them.
A leisurely car ride back down the mountain into Driggs is entertaining. We spot fitness enthusiasts running up the mountainside pulling tyres which are attached to their waists by a rope!!!!!! Have certainly seen some funny things on our travels; pmsl!
After a couple of hours chilling out at Big Bear Lane … this heat really takes it out of you lol … We get the bikes out and cycle the 5min ride to Main Street. We choose yet another establishment in which to have our tea. This time we opt for Big BBQ Hole …… and after a couple of cobs (pulled pork for me and pulled beef for Neil) take a cycle ride around the Trail Creek side of the town before heading back to Big Bear Lane as the sun set.
Wed, 3rd Jul: Big Bear Lane, Victor, Idaho
Chilling / Researching …. O’Rourkes / Knotty Pine
Thu, 4th Jul: Independence Day !!!!! Big Bear Lane, Victor, Idaho
4th July Celebrations
Parade / Party
Fri, 5th Jul: Big Bear Lane, Victor, Idaho
Chilling / Exploring area / Planning … Waiting for Butler’s return from Rainbow Gathering
Sat, 6th Jul: Big Bear Lane, Victor, Idaho
Chilling / Exploring area / Planning … Waiting for Butler’s return from Rainbow Gathering
Sun, 7th Jul: Big Bear Lane, Victor, Idaho
Mon, 8th Jul: ????? USA / South America ?????
Tue, 9th Jul:
Wed, 10th Jul:
Thu, 11th Jul:
Fri, 12th Jul:
Sat, 13th Jul:
Sun, 14th Jul:
Victor really is a beautiful little town with a real sense of community. It has a real western feel to it and the more time we spend here the more we love it. The Butlers will be back from their Rainbow Gathering next week to start their summer living in Victor … and I’m sure they will settle very well into the relaxed life here. We can see why they fell n love with the area all those years ago 🙂
MILEAGE !!!!!!!
The drive through the park was extremely dramatic taking us from an elevation of 3000 feet to -150 feet below sea level and back up again! The roadway was unbelievable in itself and quite scary at times.
Pitkins Around The World 