Vietnam …

Wed, 27th Mar: Bizu Hotel, District 1
Today we make our two flights to Vietnam. The first flight to Bangkok at 12.30pm and then the second flight to Hoi Chi Minh City lands at 5.30pm. Once again, on arrival at our hotel, we are in a great location – our research paid off!!! Districts 1 and 3 are where to base yourself. Once we have checked in we talk a walk outside to get our bearings and find something to eat.

One step outside the hotel and it was overwhelming – we are located on a crossroads and it’s like having four Khao San Roads crossing at this junction! On two of the corners are bars which are ‘banging’- Go2 and Crazy Buffalo – and the boys outside compete in an effort to get our business as we walk past. We take a left turn to walk down one of the roads and that’s all we end up managing lol. At the end is Duc Vuong Hotel boasting The View, roof top bar/restaurant and we are ushered inside to take a look. It’s great up there and we take some time out from the buzz on the street that literally knocked us out. There are more westerners here and we end up chatting with a lovely australian couple, Gill and Tom who are travelling with their 15 year old daughter Bernadette. Gill and Tom travelled the world in 1989/90 and you immediately feel their passion for travelling. As always it is good to share stories and we make mental notes of their recommendations.

After a couple of hours we say our goodbyes and end up having a pizza on the way back before a rowdy beverage in Go2 and finally bed – well it is 2am after all!!!!!! A facetime session with Lauren for an update on her world and to help her with the form filling for the cat’s op (the lump on her back has returned :-() and we finally turn the lights out at 3am.

Thu, 28th Mar: Bizu Hotel, District 1
A late start to the day sees us go on a walkabout and the streets of District 1 are sooooo busy. We’ve never seen so many mopeds and scooters in one place. There are sometimes whole families (Mum, Dad, 2 kids) on a scooter. It’s quite alarming (and comical) to see just how much some of these guys fit on these vehicles – amazing, lol.

Our walk around gives us a feel of the area and we get our bearings. A late lunch / early tea is at the Barbeque Garden. We saw this on the way to the hotel yesterday and were keen to find it and eat there. Mel Earle also recommended the place to us when she commented on an item on facebook. We are not disappointed! Specialising in an unique mixture of Vietnamese and international barbecue items, we opt for a selection of skewers (lamb, chicken and beef selection) with vegetable noodles and a portion of cantonese rice. They light the small barbecue in the centre of the table and we’re off cooking the food in our own time. A great way to eat.

Bellies full we walk the route to the Water Puppet Show and purchase our tickets for the 6.15pm show. We have an hour to kill and have fun strolling around the area where the theatre is situated – in the equivalent of our ‘leisure centre’. There are many activities going on – volleyball, basketball, tennis, dancing and singing classes – and we wander around taking in the locals enjoying their leisurely pursuits.

The Golden Dragon Water Puppet Show is a Vietnamese traditional water puppetry show that has existed since the 11th Century. Watching the show is, we read, the best way to discover the history and the traditional cultural life of Vietnamese People. However, whilst we could not understand what was being said and sung, we could make out what was happening in the story from the excellent puppeteering. The programme we saw today has been performed at various international festivals and as part of cultural exchange activities with other countries. It was very different to anything we have witnessed before, it was weird and fun at the same time. We soon got used to it and realised how talented the puppeteers are – they manipulated their puppets from under the water whilst the puppets pranced about just above it. The music and the voiceovers came live from the 6 members of the ‘band’ – 3 on each side of the water. The musician/singers and puppeteers were so in tune with each other, it was actually very good indeed!

Hilariously we had a cyclo back to the hotel! A type of three wheeled bicycle at the front of which there is a seat for the customer! The cyclist sits on a very high bike seat behind you and pushes down on the pedals to move the vehicle forward. Once it gets going it’s not too bad – but very slow amongst the traffic, lol. We are quite a sight to behold as they have made us both sit in the same one – I’m perched on Neil’s lap!!!! How the guy manages to get us moving is anyone’s guess but he does so brilliantly and within 10 minutes we are back outside our hotel.

Free use of the computers (we have one each) and printer enables us to make some progress in researching, planning and mapping out ideas for the next couple of weeks. There are countless options available for exploring Vietnam and we are struggling to narrow them down at the moment. There are tours galore – cycling, cruising, trekking … and even by Vespa!!!! Our computer time also gives us the opportunity to print the visa application forms for China and really digest the information for trying to get this in Hong Kong.

Fri, 29th Mar: Bizu Hotel, District 1 – Good Friday
For 189,000 Vietnamese Dong (VND) each we embark on a full day City Tour in an air conditioned bus with a tour guide. Meeting at 8.30am the tour took in the following:-
War Remnant Museum – a war museum which primarily contains exhibits relating to the American phase of the Vietnam War. Parts were interesting whilst others were sickening and very sad 😦 What these people did to each other whilst in conflict was totally shocking and horrific – the consequences of their actions still seen in the country’s people today.
China Town – Same same, but different, lol.
Thien Hau Pagoda – The Pagoda of the Lady Thien Hau is a Chinese style temple. It is dedicated to Thiên Hậu, the Lady of the Sea, a deity of traditional Chinese religion who is worshipped in the seafaring Chinese communities.
Binh Tay Market – the ‘market warehouse’ where other market stallholders come to buy their supplies which was an intriguing Vietnamese market experience.
Handicraft Workshop – factory producing lacquer goods and shop. Beautiful pieces of work but obviously we were not shopping, much to the disappointment of the staff!
Reunification Palace – formerly known as Independence Palace and built on the site of the former Norodom Palace this is a landmark in Ho Chi Minh City. It was the home and workplace of the President of South Vietnam during the Vietnam War. It was also the site of the end of the Vietnam War during the Fall of Saigon on 30th April 1975, when a North Vietnamese Army tank crashed through its gates.
The Notre Dame Cathedral – the city’s main church and officially Basilica of Our Lady of The Immaculate Conception, this cathedral is located in the downtown of the city and was established by French colonists. The cathedral was constructed between 1863 and 1880. It has two bell towers, reaching a height of 58 metres (190 feet). Unfortunately, we are unable to enter inside as a service is beginning – it is after all Good Friday.
The General Post Office – Saigon Central Post Office is opposite Notre Dame Cathedral and was constructed when Vietnam was part of French Indochina in the early 20th century. It has a Gothic architectural style. Both buildings are a delight.
City Hall – Ho Chi Minh City People’s Committee Head office was built in 1902-1908 in a French colonial style for the then city of Saigon. It was renamed after 1975 as Ho Chi Minh City People’s Committee. The building is not opened to the public or for tourists and we just drive past this quite impressive building.

We call into a Travel Agents before heading back to the hotel and talk about the 10 day route to Hanoi which they have planned and costed for us. We head back to the hotel with a print out and, once we have researched a little more, we decide to go it alone – obviously using their itinerary as a guideline 🙂 We speak to Julie, our receptionist, and she books us tickets on the ‘Open Bus’ to Da Lat for Tuesday, 2nd April – a five hour journey and a first for us! We make the hotel booking for Da Lat and book a Cycle Tour (yay!) on to Nha Trang … and already it is proving much cheaper than paying the Travel Agent.

We go out for something to eat quite late tonight and, in doing so, catch a glimpse of the Bitexco Financial Tower, a skyscraper in the distance of the city. We decide we will head there to take in the views of Hoi Chi Minh from its sky deck. Once there we have missed (by three minutes) the last entry ticket up and have to make do with a visit to the bar on Floor 52 !!!! Not too bad after all eh???? The drinks, a couple of beers for Neil and a Saigon Lady for me, are expensive but I guess we pay for the privilege of the views we have! including the helipad which juts out from the building on this floor. Inaugurated in 2010, the building has 68 floors above ground and three basements. At a height of 262.5 metres (861 ft) it is the 124th tallest building in the world. The inspiration for this skyscraper’s unique shape is from Vietnam’s national flower, the lotus, which to them is a symbol of purity, commitment and optimism.

After an enjoyable hour or so we leave and call into Subway to fill our bellies on the way back to the hotel.

Sat, 30th Mar: Bizu Hotel, District 1
For 126,000 VND each we take another tour today and make the 2hr journey to Cu Chi Tunnels. Our Guide, Mr Bean, is a very colourful character and has many ‘stories’ to tell. He tells us the history of Vietnam right from when the French invaded to the current day. This kills about an hour of the journey and, once out of the city, we pass green paddy fields, pleasant countryside views of the Vietnamese agriculture and see local peasants at work. Cu Chi used to be a bitter battleground for Vietnam and the tunnels is an underground village – the Viet Cong’s fortress dug beneath the jungles of South Vietnam.

Mr Bean guides us around the ‘battlefield’, classified as a national relic and one of the top attractions in southern Vietnam. This labyrinth of tunnels and traps was carved out by the Viet Cong during the Vietnam war with the United States. It is a unique project of architecture of an underground system of tunnels located deeply in the ground with numerous ‘floors’. There is an intricate network of alleys over 200km long which were used as a way to ambush approaching US troops, move supplies, deliver information and even as living quarters. The Cu Chi Tunnels are part of a much larger network that spans much of the southern part of the country. These days it’s set up as a proper tourist attraction complete with demonstrations, guided tours, displays and crawl-able tunnels – the highlight of the visit! They’ve even been so kind as to enlarge the width of portions of the tunnels to fit the typical western physique.

The underground tunnel system indicates the will of determination, wisdom and pride of Cu Chi people and is a symbol of the Vietnamese people’s revolutionary heroism. Mr Bean explains how they were able to live and breathe under the ground and, how they only came out at night. The attraction also displayed the man made traps which were set to maim or injure the enemy and it was awful to comprehend the pain these would have inflicted.

At the rest stop there was the opportunity to shoot 10 bullets from an AK47 at the shooting range. For £6.00, Neil has a go and was overwhelmed at the power and pull back of the weapon. The noise from the shooting gallery reverberated all around and you were able to acknowledge how awful this would have been for the ears of the soldiers!

Back in the City we are famished so hit Pizza Hut before going back to our room to prepare for tomorrow’s trip to the Mekong Delta and that homestay !!!!!

Sun, 31st Mar: Hung Homestay, Mekong Delta (Easter Sunday)
A 6.30 am get up today for our 2 day tour to the Mekong Delta!!!!!! Once on the bus the 3hr drive finally starts with the guide giving us a breakdown of what the first day will entail. The trip provides an overview of typical Vietnam. On the way we see the paddy fields stretching as far as the horizon and on arrival in Cai Be, we board one of the many boats and enjoy our first boat ride on the Delta. As always, we begin to make new friends ranging from England (yay), Lithuania, France, Germany and New Zealand. The whole two days are interesting as we all share our adventures prior to arrival in Vietnam.

Exploring through the lush vegetarians of the Mekong Delta, we get our first experience of a floating market where market buyers are busy bargaining. Our boat drops us off at a small jetty where we experience a much more sedate rowing boat ride (just 4 in a boat wearing our native pointed hats). The ladies that row the boats do so effortlessly and smoothly and the ride down this shady maze of the canal is very serene. From the boats we experience life for these river people – everything they do is on the water. Everything ! This perhaps explains a lot when you see the colour of the water and indeed watch the rubbish float by. We stop at a jetty and arrive at a local orchard to enjoy the tropical fruits and also visit the handicraft village of the local people. It is here that we discover what they do with the rice husks – from making popcorn and rice paper to a lovely sweet rice cake which we get to taste YUM YUM. Before we leave this centre we are offered a local sweet – coconut toffee in rice paper – which is also made here and it is very nice indeed. Time to buy a bottle of water and we are off again stopping at the fruit garden for lunch and what a beautiful lunch it is … Not a buffet! Neil has ordered elephant fish which comes gorgeously presented and which he enjoys very much.

Bicycles are our method of transport for our return journey back to the boat. The old rickety bicycles (lol) get us there without any mishaps despite the locals passing us in every direction on their mopeds – the kids waving as they pass by 🙂 The boat takes us on to Vinh Long city where we drop off our luggage at the Tour Operator’s Office before having an hour to wonder around the land market. Instead, desperate to get cool, we sit by the river where we partake of a couple of refreshments 🙂 On our return to the office, we are all split up into our relative 1 day / 2 day tour groups and head off to the appropriate buses. Ours transfers us to the town of Can Tho where 14 of us are taken by taxi to the minority village which is home to Hung Homestay. The 15 minute transfer 8km out of Can Tho City takes us out into the very dark countryside where the visibility is very poor now as it is early evening. On arrival, we meet the owners in a communal outdoor dining area and are guided through the kitchen to a row of huts, one of which is our bedroom for the night.

We are a little disappointed at first as this is not somebody’s actual home but a little complex of huts around somebody’s home. However, we discover that Hung’s Homestay is a victim of its own success. Many years ago, you would have shared the homestay with Hung, his wife, two sons and mother. Due to the growing popularity of the place, guests now stay in small wooden huts made of palm leaves in the gardens and by the river rather than the main house. Our hut which overlooked the river, is authentic and minimal but clean and tidy. Our window is a rectangular hole in the wall and can be covered by a wooden shutter. There is a gap all around the perimeter of the ceiling where the walls meet the roof and the door separates itself from the frame by 3inches at its base. We have a toilet and a sink and the only thing protecting us from the night wildlife and insects is the mosquito net lol which we put over the bed straight away. All in all I guess it is a Homestay in the sense that this is basically how many of the Vietnamese of the Mekong Delta live.

A quick ‘wash’ and we do as instructed and head to the dining area for dinner. They do us proud and put on a great spread. We help roll some soya bean and potato spring rolls which are better tasting than they are sounding! We then cook our masterpieces and, as if by magic, we return to our table to find it has been laid with fish, salad, tofu, rice paper, noodles and vegetables. Our table just could not finish this plentiful bounty. Pineapple followed as did ‘rice wine’ served as shots and very potent – so we had two more lol, thinking it would knock us out given Neil’s aversion to insects! Good conversation and company made the couple of hours fly by before everybody retired to bed – it’s an even earlier start to the day tomorrow. It’s so quiet here and, after the hectic long day, I fall straight to sleep and I must say what a great night’s sleep it was. Neil however donned his headlamp to read before falling off to sleep. Oh yeh, and he was fully dressed with his pj trousers tucked into his socks, lol.

Mon, 1st Apr: Bizu Hotel, District 1
Despite being up at the ungodly hour of 6.00am for the walk to the village and primary school, it was well worth it. One of our hosts guides us down the village path to a makeshift jetty where we are rowed across the river to the local market on the other side. Already it is absolutely buzzing with people buying and selling the many food products and we love it. Behind the market is the primary school and this for us is a real treat ! The children are intrigued by us, some even brave enough to shout hello and give us a little wave. Afterwards, we walk back to the Homestay to get our luggage and Hung’s son leads us to their boat which takes us down the canal to meet the tourist boat with our fellow tourists who stayed at a hotel last night. We’ve had a lovely experience here – Mr Hung’s family have lived on this land for 130 years and he takes great pride in sharing the people and the place in which he lives. A stay with Hung and his family allowed us a not to be missed experience to the Mekong Delta. Initially disgruntled on our arrival, we were far from disappointed with the experience. We had a fair few laughs and, more importantly, a great night’s sleep! We will just have to experience a Homestay in somebody’s actual home another time.

Once aboard the Tourist Boat, we are taken to the busiest floating market of the Mekong River – Cai Rang Floating Market. Hundreds of vessels gather here to trade all kinds of fruit from neighbouring fertile farms. Tied to a mast is a sample of the goods on sale on the boat so you can see what they are selling. Our guide informs us that these market traders live and work on their boats and they will stay anchored up until everything on the boat has been sold. It’s a hive of activity on the water here and we are intrigued by it all. It’s not long before a little boat pulls up alongside us showing us their wares – one boy in particular is very persistent in his efforts; a very good salesman!

At our next stop, we walk through a village for an insightful visit to its rice noodle making shop and a rice-husking mill where we learn and understand about the rice production, sorting and distribution process. All very interesting and done on such a small scale that you appreciate just how hard the people here work to ensure the demands for the product are met! Vietnam is only second to Thailand in its production of rice to the rest of the world.

Our final boat journey on this lively river is back to Can Tho market where we have free time (2hrs) for a stroll and some lunch before making the long bus journey back to Ho Chi Minh City (3hrs).

We’ve had a lovely journey over the last couple of days. We’ve made more new friends and shared experiences and some have given us ideas for the rest of our stay in Vietnam. In particular a Vietnamese lady, Kim, befriended us today – she lives in London but is originally from Hanoi and was here with her three friends on a trip to the South. They were a lovely bunch of ladies and took a huge interest in us – even insisting that we sit and share their fruit with them when we had a ‘rest stop’. It was one of those moments when it would have offended it we didn’t take them up on their kind hospitality. The tour has provided us with an amazing insight into Mekong Delta, cruising along the rivers experiencing the daily rural lifestyle and the simple way in which the people live. Just about everything in the Vietnamese way of life down here is done on this river … it is central to all that they do!

When we get back to the hotel we are truly shattered so it’s just a shower, re-pack, subway takeout for tea and off to bed to recharge the batteries for our bus journey tomorrow.

Tue, 2nd Apr: The Paris Hotel, Da Lat
A 7hr ‘open bus’ journey to Da Lat is well worth it – the views are great and it’s interesting to see locals working the paddy fields, minority village life, the colourful graveyards and, on nearing Da Lat, the huge statues and shrines adorning the balconies of the homes of this very catholic area and, of course, the mountains and coffee plantations. What we will not miss is the constant ‘bib bib’ of the bus driver as he seemed to be auditioning for the film ‘Speed’ – he just could not stay behind anyone or anything. Located in the South Central Highlands of Vietnam, Da Lat was originally the playground of the French who built villas in the clear mountain air to escape the heat and humidity of the coast and of Saigon.

Da Lat looks like a cross between Vietnam and the French Alps. Many of its hotels and houses are built in a European/ French style. The city spreads across a series of pine-covered hills, with a small lake in the centre and surrounded by a man made lake and higher peaks, which make for some lovely scenery quite different from the rest of Vietnam. The first thing we notice is that it is quite cool at night and this is a welcome change. Da Lat is very much a niche tourism town, open to some of the more adventurous travellers being surrounded by some of the best mountain biking, hiking and canyoning opportunities in Vietnam. Tourists are drawn here by the scenery, vivid blue skies, fresh air, flower-filled parks, and local culinary treats.

The guidebooks are not wrong, it is really quite quaint here and The Paris Hotel is in a lovely quiet position down from the town centre on the opposite side of the beautiful Xuan Huong Lake. Once we are checked in by the very over attentive and eager owners (bless!) we walk off into the town to locate the office of Phat Tyres, the company with whom we are going to the one day cycle tour to Nha Trang. Walking up into the town through the restaurants and markets, we finally find the right place and are immediately impressed by the set up. The english of the very nice young man who dealt with us was reassuring. He made a note of our heights – for our bikes – and managed to talk us into a Hike and Kayak Tour tomorrow, lol. After the bus journey today, we decide that it would be great to get some fresh air and gentle exercise.

Walking back down through the town centre we keep an eye out for somewhere nice to eat. As we did so, we happened upon a small busy bar full of travellers – the buzz attracted us so we stopped for a couple of drinks. Now at the Hangout Bar, in the centre of the town, we find that it has free pool and good music to listen to. It also brags that it’s a good place to pick travel tips and meet other travellers. It certainly is busy with travellers and has a very relaxed atmosphere. On talking to the barman, he recommends that we check out Wild Sunflower for something nice to eat. He was not wrong – a few more yards up the hill and we find it. It is only a small restaurant but, wow, it did not disappoint. Pork in a Claypot, Lemongrass Chicken, Fried Rice and Oyster Mushrooms NOM NOM NOM – best meal we’ve had in Vietnam yet.

A further 10min walk in the lovely fresh air and we arrived back at the hotel. Well, we walked straight past the hotel!!!! Thinking we’d gone too far down the road we turned around to check and, lo and behold, the place had its shutters down … wtf! We were locked out! It was by pure chance that we attracted the attention of the owner as we went round to the back of the building … phew! He signalled for us to go back round to the front where he opened up for us and showed us where the bell was for attention after hours … it was only 10.00pm. Laughing about it afterwards we both said how awful it would have been if we couldn’t get in … the town was in darkness at this time, not like the big city of Saigon. Once inside, we sort out our trekking gear and fall wearily into bed.

Wed, 3rd Apr: The Paris Hotel, Da Lat
We are picked up at 8.30am by Vin from Phat Tyre Ventures to take part in their Hike and Kayak Tour today. On tour with another English couple, Richard and Alison, we have a really enjoyable day. Once dropped outside of the city, our trek takes us on a steep climb up into the hillside surrounding Da Lat. This moderate trek takes us through rolling hills to one of the last untouched sections of jungle left in Vietnam today. Once at the top we are rewarded with stunning views of the city and realise just how big Da Lat is. It’s so picturesque and we can see the mountains which surround it on all sides as well as the lake at its centre.

Our trek downhill takes us deep into the jungle through the vines and foliage and all we can hear is the beautiful birdsong. Once at the bottom we stop at a camp enjoyed by Vietnamese people to have lunch which is prepared by the guides. Situated at the lakeside, it is so peaceful in this setting and we enjoy relaxing after our trek. We also enjoy the company of the ‘camp dog’ who had a lovely disposition. He kept us company right up until we went kayaking and enjoyed having the stick thrown in the water so that he could retrieve it – a really happy chap he was 🙂 After lunch we embark on an hours kayaking on the lake. Unfortunately, the lake is sitting low at this time of year so we are unable to get very far on one of the small rivers that feed it. The flat water kayak gives us a further opportunity to get out into areas that are accessible only by water and see much more of the natural beauty and wildlife Vietnam has to offer. The lake is very calming and tranquil and, once we’d mastered the art of rowing in unison (lol) we manoeuvred our way around very smoothly taking in the sights of the buffalo gently grazing in the lower hills, the hawk soaring above us and the solitary cormorant searching for his dinner!

Back at camp the kayaks were put away and we walked off to the lake’s edge where we were met by a boat which transferred us across the lake to our vehicle and headed back to our hotel. We had a gorgeous day and loved being in the fresh air after the bus journey yesterday ! To get outdoors and be active again especially in this beautiful countryside was a wonderful experience. Following a quick much needed shower, we walk up the hillside to Wild Sunflower where we enjoy another fabulous meal before returning to the Paris Hotel where we pack again in readiness for our early start tomorrow.

Thu, 4th Apr: Best Western Sea and Sun Hotel, Nha Trang
In an effort to get some exercise, we join a one day Cycle Tour (70km) to make our journey to Nha Trang today. Our guide Lin and our driver Mr Ming pick us up at 7.45am and our ride starts with a 45 minute transfer 25km to the north east of Da Lat on a new road and through the newest national park in Vietnam (Bidoup Nui Ba). Once on our bikes, we enjoy fantastic cycling in the highlands during the first couple of hours on the road. Mr Ming, in the support vehicle, follows us to pick us up should we struggle. He is also the transport for our luggage and provisions for the day. The first section of the ride starts in pine forest and rolls through the hills with beautiful views of farms, countryside and Nui Ba Mountain. We pass through minority villages where we are welcomed by the children shouting hello and lining up for high fives 🙂

The final leg of the ride before lunch is a 3km climb to the top of the pass before some serious downhill. The 28km, uninterrupted downhill section, is the longest section of downhill of any of Phat Tire Ventures and it is stunning – Lin stops us at various lookout points along the way for great photo opportunities. After reaching the bottom of the pass we have a great picnic style lunch in a local ‘rest stop cafe’ – complete with hammocks!

Following lunch we cycle the pleasant one hour journey to the outskirts of Nha Trang past small farms and through rolling hills. Down at the bottom of the hills in the mid-day heat it is now so hot and humid and we start to struggle – me more than Neil ! I cannot make it up the final hill so jump into the van with Mr Ming and wait for Neil and Lin at the top. Neil has completed it all and did really well. The bikes are broken down and packed away and we all jump into the van for the rest of the journey into Nha Trang.

Outside the Best Western Sea and Sun Hotel, we thank the boys for a fantastic day before checking in. On the beach front, are well pleased with our decision to treat ourselves to a superior room at this hotel – we need to really chill out after the exertions of the last couple of days. We are more than ‘well pleased’ to find they’ve upgraded us to a Luxury Suite and wow, what a treat. All mod cons and a bath – what luxury!!!!!!! A bikini wax, a swedish massage and a dip in the pool later we spend the rest of the evening in our suite with a bit of room service !

Fri, 5th Apr: Best Western Sea and Sun Hotel, Nha Trang (Missy’s Op Day:-( )
We have a late breakfast before going out and about the town to get our bearings.
NhaTrang is a coastal city and capital of Khanh Hoa province, on the South Central Coast of Vietnam. Nha Trang is well known for its beaches and scuba diving and has developed into a popular destination for international tourists, attracting large numbers of backpackers, as well as more affluent travellers on the Southeast Asia circuit; it is already very popular with Vietnamese tourists, with Nha Trang Bay widely considered as among the world’s most beautiful bays. As a result, it is one of the most important tourist hubs of Vietnam, thanks to its beautiful beaches with fine and clean sand and the clear ocean water with mild temperatures all year round. Lying off Nha Trang (and the view from our room) is the Hon Tre Island (Bamboo Island), with a major resort operated by the Vinpearl Group. The Vinpearl Cable Car, a gondola lift system, links the mainland to the five-star resort and theme park on Hon Tre Island.

It’s a hot sticky day and I think the heat is getting to me. We push on and call into a couple of travel agents for some prices and information on sleeper trains / buses to Hoi An or Hue – we hadn’t quite decided on where to go to next. This decision was made for us as there were only hard seats available for the 12 hour train trip; the alternative was 17 hours on the bus and this was never going to happen. Back at the hotel we jumped on the computers and found great priced flights (50.00) with Vietnam Airlines on Monday. So, the decision was made for us, we stay an extra night to chill in Nha Trang and go direct to Hanoi.

Back in the room we catch up with Lauren and Mum to find out how the cat is doing … whilst on facetime with Lauren the vet calls and it’s not good news 😦 Her tumours have spread and they’ve removed as much as they can. This operation will possibly buy her another year before the tumours spread again but there will be no more ops … just medication to keep her comfortable as long as we can. On the positive side, as Neil said; as Lauren spotted the lumps early, we’ve managed to buy Missy a couple of years 😀 A few tears were shed before I left Lauren and Nanny to comfort each other and agreed to catch up with them later on when Missy was back home.

Neil returned from his beach visit and after bringing him up to speed, he said he’d found the ideal place to spend the evening and suggested we head out and let our hair down. We had a “Pitkin Special” night out at The Sailing Club – Brilliant food (fillet steak), fantastic music and lots of alcohol and dancing … it’s been too long 😀 What an absolutely great location this club was in – underneath palm trees on Nha Trang beach in the heart of the tourism area, on the main Boulevard – and only a 2min walk from our hotel! Happy Days!!! We get talking to the managers – a guy from England and the other from Germany – and they inform us that The Sailing Club is owned by an Australian guy in cooperation with Vietnamese partners. It really is a beautiful combination of Mediterranean style and Asian charm, occupying the best piece of the beach in Nha Trang. Cocktails, a fire dancing show, a fire on the beach and a great atmosphere conjured up our friend’s words … “We like it here we do!” 😀 … so much so that we do not roll in until 1.00am. We could have been anywhere in the world …

Back in our room we facetime home and see the extent of Missy’s operation today … the area that she has been cut open is much longer than before and looks horrid. I feel helpless here but share messages with Lauren and Nanny … although it’s not what my Mum signed up for but I know she’s the bestest surrogate ever. Before lights out Lauren sends me a picture of Missy curled up on Mum’s lap … I need say no more x

Sat, 6th Apr: Best Western Sea and Sun Hotel, Nha Trang
Unfortunately for Neil, he had booked on a diving trip this morning. A bit worse for wear he set of at 7.30 am – bless! Diving in Nha Trang Bay (apparently one of the twenty nine most beautiful bays in the world) is year round and the marine life is very diverse and many fishes, corals and Nudibranchs unique to the South China Sea can regularly be seen here, shy Turtles have also been sighted along with small Reef Sharks. Although the coral is not as world-renowned as the Red Sea in Egypt or the Great Barrier Reef in Australia, a recent survey found over 350 species of hard and soft corals, nearly 50% of the corals in the world and they consider them the very best in the East Sea.

Diving with the Sailing Club, Neil is transferred to the local tourist port of Cau Da from where the purpose built 18 meter dive boat departs. From the port it takes 45 minutes to the first of the two dive sites he will be diving today:-
Octopus Rock (dive of Hon Rom) – Swim throughs, caves and tunnels, Hard and Soft corals, Octopus, Barracuda, Unicornfish, Surgeonfish, Cobia, Rays. Dive Time: 47 mins / Depth: 11 metres / Visibility: 10 Metres / Temperature: 28 degrees centigrade / Weight Belt: 6kg.
Tri Minh’s Treat (dive of Hon Mun Marine Protected Area) – Superb hard coral reef on a gentle sloping wall with a sandy bottom, discovered and named after Vietnam’s most famous local diver Minh Tri Nguyen Ha. Nudibranchs, Pufferfish, Scorpionfish, Lionfish and plenty of Macro life. Dive Time: 45 mins / Depth: 12 metres.

I stayed in and around the hotel catching up on the blog and doing some research into future travel arrangements and Lauren’s intended 21st birthday trip to Morocco – we will be chatting to her later about that one! lol!

Neil is absolutely shattered on his return, has a shower and a much needed afternoon kip. We catch up with Lauren about her holiday and to see how Missy is doing. All seems well and we agree to transfer the deposit to her. We say goodbye to an extremely excited happy daughter 😀

Bellies rumbling we get ready and head off to Lac Canh, a restaurant recommended by a couple Neil met on his driving trip today. We jump in a taxi for the 2km journey and the promenade is busy this Saturday evening. Small and intimate in the front, the restaurant clientele is mostly Asian and the menu list is extensive and interesting. We cook for ourselves on the small table top barbecue and the food is outstanding. An enjoyable dinner at a very reasonable price! We walk the 2km back to the hotel where I stay in and Neil heads off to the Booze Cruise Bar and Grill to watch the Stoke -v- Villa game – which ended in a brilliant 3-1win by the Villa, with an outstanding goal by Benteke. Needless to say Neil comes back a very happy bunny.

Sun, 7th Apr: Best Western Sea and Sun Hotel, Nha Trang
An extra day in Nha Trang was needed due to the fact that we struggled to get a sleeper cabin on any of the overnight trains or buses to Hoi an or Hue. Obstacles in our way, we have now decided to go direct to Hanoi and are flying out tomorrow teatime – 5.25pm.

We have to move from our suite to a Luxury Room for the one night but we’re not bothered at all – the suite was an unexpected treat for a few days. Once the move has taken place we make the most of our extra time by heading off around the town to ‘get a few jobs done’. Firstly, I get my walking shoes repaired, finally. The strap across the foot had torn away from the main shoe … they cost £60, and the repair 60p!!!!! Fantastic! Next, I really need to tidy up my hair … we come across Mr Lee’s Hair and Beauty Salon and what a great find this is! Hung Dong is a young Vietnamese man who trained in Scotland, where his godmother lives. He also lived in Manchester and Wales for a while and lived in London. He is back in Vietnam to settle down with his girlfriend and works out of his sister’s shop. This is wonderful for me as I am quickly put at ease by his good English and his understanding of what it is I’d like done. Two and a half hours later and I feel ‘western’ again lol. A full head of highlights, root colour, wash, cut and blow dry £32.00 !!!!!, but priceless in how it looked and made me feel 😀 I LOVE MY HAIR!

Neil returns to meet me as I’m finishing – he enjoyed himself too having gone for a hot stone massage. We meander around until we are too hot and have to partake of some beverages … and I find a new tipple; kahlua and milk, very nice. Back at the hotel, we tidy up in readiness for tomorrow’s onward journey to Hanoi after which time Neil heads back to the Booze Cruise to watch the footy – keeping an eye out on the games playing this afternoon and how the results affect the Villa’s bottom of the table situation. I enjoy some chilling out time before Neil returns and we hit the sack.

Mon, 8th Apr: May De Ville Old Quarter Hotel, Hanoi
Not much we can do today but stay around at the hotel. After checking out at mid-day, we make use of our spare time by completing the 8 pages of forms required to apply for our Chinese Visa. We are going to see if it is possible to obtain it in Hanoi instead of Hong Kong … just so that we don’t have to fit Hong Kong in if we don’t want to. Our transfer arrives at 3pm and we take the 45min journey to the airport for our 5.25pm flight and it all goes very smoothly. It’s another 45min taxi journey to the Old Quarter in Hanoi where we have decided to base ourselves. Bloody taxi charged us 470,000 Vietnamese Dong (VND) (15pounds) – which seemed way too much but, despite Neil’s protests, we paid and checked into the hotel. We didn’t do much except take a short walk around the immediate area. After calling in at a local tour operator – checking out Halong Bay cruises and visa options – we stopped for something to eat at Le Pub before retiring for the night. Sociable and enjoyable, Le Pub is a great place to hook up with others, as there’s always a good mix of travellers and foreign residents here. There’s a cosy, tavern-like interior with big screens for sports fans, a street-facing terrace and a rear courtyard. The music includes tunes you can sing along to and we soon partake of a bar snack before leaving to retire for the night. another ‘good find’ 2mins away from the hotel!!!

Tue, 9th Apr: May De Ville Old Quarter Hotel, Hanoi
Today’s job is to take our completed applications to the Chinese Embassy and, fingers crossed, get our visa sorted. With the opening hours being 8.30am-11.30am we take a banana from the meagre breakfast and grab a taxi for 50,000 VND (£1.57) and leave the hotel. Ten minutes later we are in the Embassy and, having had our forms checked by the Guard, we are queueing at the counter … so far so good. The assistant goes through our forms and, just as we think it’s a done deal, she states that they need a photocopy of a confirmed hotel reservation in China before they can accept the application for processing!!!!!! Oh, and now it’s 9.50am and they close for the day at 11.00am. We need to have the application accepted today on a 24hr service as we are heading to Halong Bay for a two day cruise on Thursday morning. To have it all done and dusted by then would be a big relief.

So, we make a quick exit and hail down a taxi back to the hotel. In our rush we didn’t ask for a price – BIG MISTAKE! Five minutes into the journey we notice the meter ticking over extremely fast and assume it’s nothing to worry about. However, at our drop off the driver demands 400,000 VND … bloody hell! An altercation commences … no way are we paying that, it’s extortionate … 350,000 VND more than the same journey earlier that morning. Following a few expletives Neil just hands over 100,000 VND and gets out of the taxi and I follow him. The taxi driver just drives off shouting abuse at us … Neil is fuming (quite rightly) at the way in which taxis here seem to try and rip you off 😦

Back in our room we get on Agoda and book the cheapest hotel in Hangzhou that we can find, email the reservation to reception for printing and head back out again with our paperwork – now it’s 11.15am. We hail another taxi and, knowing exactly where we need to go… Back at the Chinese Embassy, our application is accepted over the counter. YAY!

All that is required of us now is to locate the stipulated bank ICBC, where they require us to pay the application fee. A 3km taxi ride to the Business District and we do the deed. Relieved, we take ourselves off for a walk a Pizza Hut pizza and an afternoon walk back to the Old Quarter where we are staying. Our route back takes in the Hanoi Hilton … a truly grim experience …

Hỏa Lò Prison (Hanoi Hilton) was a prison used by the French colonists in Vietnam for political prisoners, and later by North Vietnam for prisoners of war during the Vietnam War when it was sarcastically known to American prisoners of war as the “Hanoi Hilton”. The prison was demolished during the 1990s, though the gatehouse remains as a museum. The name Hoa Lo, commonly translates as “fiery furnace” or even “Hell’s hole”. The name originated from the street name phố Hỏa Lò, due to the concentration of stores selling wood stoves and coal-fire stoves along the street from pre-colonial times.

The prison was built in Hanoi by the French, in dates ranging from 1886–1889 when Vietnam was still part of French Indochina. The French called the prison Maison Centrale literally, Central House, a traditional euphemism to denote prisons in France. This sign still adorns the archway over the entrance gate. Located near Hanoi’s French Quarter it was intended to hold Vietnamese prisoners, particularly political prisoners agitating for independence who were often subject to torture and execution. A 1913 renovation expanded its capacity from 460 inmates to 600. It was, nevertheless, often overcrowded holding some 730 prisoners on a given day in 1916, a figure which would rise to 895 in 1922 and 1,430 in 1933. By 1954 it held more than 2000 people with its inmates held in subhuman conditions it had become a symbol of colonialist exploitation and of the bitterness of the Vietnamese towards the French. Thereafter the prison served as an education centre for revolutionary doctrine and activity, and it was kept around after the French left to mark its historical significance to the North Vietnamese.

During the Vietnam War, the first U.S. prisoner to be sent to Hoa Lo was Lieutenant, Junior Grade Everett Alvarez Jr., who was shot down on August 5, 1964. From the beginning, U.S. POWs endured miserable conditions, including poor food and unsanitary conditions. The prison complex was sarcastically nicknamed the “Hanoi Hilton” by the American POWs, in reference to the well-known Hilton Hotel chain.

The Hanoi Hilton was the site used by the North Vietnamese Army to house, torture and interrogate captured servicemen, mostly American pilots shot down during bombing raids. Although North Vietnam was a signatory of the Third Geneva Convention of 1949, which demanded “decent and humane treatment” of prisoners of war, severe torture methods were employed, such as rope bindings, irons, beatings, and prolonged solitary confinement. Future U.S. Vice Presidential candidate James Stockdale and decorated U.S. Air Force pilot Bud Day were held as prisoners at the Hanoi Hilton, as was future Senator and 2008 Republican presidential nominee John McCain, who spent parts of his five and a half years as a POW there. John McCain’s flight suit and parachute are on display in the museum.

John McCain’s capture and subsequent imprisonment began on October 26, 1967. He was flying his 23rd bombing mission over North Vietnam when his A-4E Skyhawk was shot down by a missile over Hanoi. McCain fractured both arms and a leg ejecting from the aircraft, and nearly drowned when he parachuted into Truc Bach Lake.

Some North Vietnamese pulled him ashore, then others crushed his shoulder with a rifle butt and bayoneted him. Although McCain was badly wounded, his captors refused to treat his injuries, beating and interrogating him to get information; he was given medical care only when the North Vietnamese discovered that his father was a top admiral. McCain spent six weeks in the hospital while receiving marginal care. By then having lost 50 pounds (23 kg), in a chest cast, and with his hair turned white, McCain was sent to a different camp on the outskirts of Hanoi in December 1967, into a cell with two other Americans who did not expect him to live a week. In March 1968, McCain was put into solitary confinement, where he would remain for two years.

In the late 1970s and early 1980s the prison continued in use after release of the American prisoners but most was demolished in the mid-1990s. Only part of the prison exists today as a museum. The displays mainly show the prison during the French colonial period, including the guillotine room, still with original equipment, and the quarters for men and women Vietnamese political prisoners. Exhibits relating to the American prisoners include the interrogation room where many newly captured Americans were questioned (notorious among former prisoners as the “blue room”) is now made up to look like a very comfortable, if spartan, barracks-style room. Displays in the room claim that Americans were treated well and not harmed (and even cite the nickname “Hanoi Hilton” as proof that inmates found the accommodations comparable to a hotel’s). The museum’s claims are contradicted by former prisoners’ published memoirs and oral histories broadcast on C-SPAN identify the room as the site of numerous acts of torture. A very grim place indeed 😦

Walking back to the hotel we go via Hoan Kiem Lake and stop off for a coffee – al fresco style. It’s very pleasant here at Hoan Kiem Lake. The name means “Lake of the Restored Sword” referring to a legendary fifteenth century Vietnamese hero, whose magical sword was swallowed by a golden tortoise. Hence on a tiny island in the middle of the lake stands appropriately “Tortoise Tower,” an ancient three-tiered pavilion in memory of the famed tortoise. A pleasant walk around the lake and back to the hotel via Le Pub ends a very interesting day.

Wed, 10th Apr: May De Ville Old Quarter Hotel, Hanoi
Up early for the journey back to the Chinese Embassy … a 10 minute queue and we have our passports complete with visa in our hands !!!!! We did it! How exciting:D The rest of the day is spent doing our own ‘City Tour’. Walking the streets we are able to soak up once again the Vietnamese city way of life and beautiful ladies dressed in traditional áo dài giving them a graceful beauty. Along the streets they work and play giving a real sense of community … something now missing in the UK where we confine ourselves behind closed doors. Most people work and live from the home; the business operates from the ground floor of the property or indeed from the street outside where they also prepare and eat their meals as well as washing up there. Amidst this, our tour takes in :-
Lenin Park – Lenin Park, including the large lake in the center, was once Hanoi’s dumping ground for household waste. Originally called Seven-Hectare Lake, the area lacked any appeal until after the French were defeated. Ho Chi Minh adorned the grounds around the lake with gardens, paths, statues and even an area for theatrical performance. The newly named Reunification Park became, and still is, one of the most beautiful parks in Hanoi. It was later renamed Lenin Park when the then Soviet Union befriended Vietnam during the American War. Every morning it fills with joggers and every evening with couples. I’m very like this place. Lenin Park is near my school.It’s Hanoi university of civil enginering .And I often walking around seven-Hectre Lake.It’s very nice.I’m very like pure air at here… If you went here once time ,you would never forget Lenin park. And Welcome to HaNoi, VietNam .
Vietnam Military History Museum – set up in July 1956 this is not far from Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum. On site is a Flag Tower – built between 1805 and 1812 – an ancient piece of architecture which has been listed as a historical object. Some US, Chinese and Soviet war material is on display outdoors including a Cessna A-37 of the South Vietnamese Air Force and a US-built F-5E Tiger with the 20mm nose gun still loaded. The tank on display is one of the tanks that broke into the grounds of Reunification Palace on 30 April 1975. The Military Museum is devoted to Ho Chi Minh’s campaign to liberate the south – a museum dedicated to the leader and Vietnam’s revolutionary struggle against foreign powers. However, the museum is widely regarded as a propaganda tool of the Vietnamese Communist regime, used to whitewash both the Communist Party and Ho Chi Minh’s legacy and historical image.
Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum – a large memorial located in the centre of Ba Dinh Square, which is the place where Vietminh leader Ho Chi Minh read the Declaration of Independence on September 2, 1945, establishing the Democratic Republic of Vietnam. The very impressive construction began in August 1985 and finished in May 1990 when the centenary of Ho Chi Minh waas celebrated according to the UNESCO Resolution which recognises him as a ‘hero of national liberation and a great man of culture’. Built in accordance with the desire of the Vietnamese people, it is designed to show their deep gratitude to the President’s great merits and to express their determination to study and follow his thought, morality and style. We arrive too late to venture inside but outside is very impressive. The exterior of the building is made of grey granite. Flanking the mausoleum are two platforms with seven steps for parade viewing. The plaza in front of the mausoleum is divided into 240 green squares separated by pathways and the gardens surrounding the mausoleum have nearly 250 different species of plants and flowers, all from different regions of Vietnam. The area is guarded most enthusiastically and the opening times and expectations of visitors are strict. You can feel the air of authority just by standing in front of the building.
Presidential Palace – this was built between 1900 and 1906 to house the French Governor-General of Indochina. It was constructed by Auguste Henri Vildieu, the official French architect for Vietnam. Like most French Colonial architecture, the palace is pointedly European. The only visual cues that it is located in Vietnam at all are mango trees growing on the grounds. The yellow palace stands behind wrought iron gates flanked by sentry boxes and incorporates elements of Italian Renaissance design. When Vietnam achieved independence in 1954, Ho Chi Minh refused to live in the grand structure for symbolic reasons, although he still received state guests there, he eventually built a traditional Vietnamese stilt house and carp pond on the grounds. His house and the grounds were made into the Presidential Palace Historical Site in 1975. The Palace is not open to tourists but is visible from the beginning of the visitors’ path. Straying off the path is highly discouraged as well as taking photographs which we learn as we are shouted at by a guard !
Quán Thánh Temple – a Taoist temple near the West Lake and the oldest in Vietnam. Located on the corner of Quan Thanh Street and Thanh Nien Street, facing West Lake it is a short walk from Truc Bach Lake. Dated to the 11th century, the temple was dedicated to Xuan Wu one of the principal deities in Taoism. As one of the Four Sacred Temples of the capital it is one of the leading tourist attractions in Hanoi.
The One Pillar Pagoda – a historic Buddhist temple on the West Lake. It is regarded as one of Vietnam’s most iconic temples. The temple was built by Emperor Lý Thái Tông, who ruled from 1028 to 1054. According to the court records, Lý Thái Tông married a peasant girl that he had met and she bore him a son. The emperor constructed the temple in gratitude for this in 1049, having been told by a monk named Thiền Tuệ to build the temple, by erecting a pillar in the middle of a lotus pond. The temple is built of wood on a single stone pillar 1.25 m in diameter, and it is designed to resemble a lotus blossom, which is a Buddhist symbol of purity, since a lotus blossoms in a muddy pond. In 1954, the French Union forces destroyed the pagoda before withdrawing from Vietnam after the First Indochina War and was rebuilt afterwards.
Trúc Bạch Lake & John McCain Monument – North West of the Old Quarter and immediately adjacent to the eastern shore of the city’s largest lake West Lake is Trúc Bạch Lake, one of the many lakes in the city. There was formerly a narrow dyke separating a corner of West Lake and the Trúc Bạch Lake came into being in the 17th century when the inhabitants of Yen Hoa Village and Yen Quang Village built a dyke separating West Lake’s southeast corner in order to raise fish. Nowadays, Trúc Bạch Lake is known outside Vietnam as the site where future United States politician John McCain landed during the Vietnam War after being shot down. US Navy aviator McCain’s capture and subsequent imprisonment began on October 26, 1967 – he was captured here after his A-4E Skyhawk was shot down by a missile. McCain saw the monument on his first journey back to Vietnam in 1985.

Having worked up an appetite, we decide to have a curry at a nice little indian restaurant down the lane alongside Truc Bach Lake … a really nice ‘find’ with great service and amazing food. A very nice change!

Leaving the lake we join and follow the Red River passing Long Bien Bridge and Chuong Duong Bridge. Long Bien Bridge is a historic cantilever bridge across the Red River that connects two parts of the city of Hanoi, Vietnam. The bridge was built in 1903 by the architects of Daydé & Pillé, a French company. It was, at that time, one of the longest bridges in Asia with the length of 2,500 m. For the French colonial government, the construction was of strategic importance in securing control of northern Vietnam. It was heavily bombarded during Vietnam War due to its critical position (the only bridge at that time across the Red River and connect Hanoi to the main port Haiphong). Some parts of the original structure remain intact, while large sections have been built later to repair the holes. Only half of the bridge retains its original shape. A project with support and loan from the French government is currently in progress to restore the bridge to its original appearance. Under the bridge, around forty extremely poor families live in boats on the Red River, coming from many poor rural areas of Vietnam. Today trains, mopeds, bicycles and pedestrians use the dilapidated bridge, while all other traffic is diverted to the nearby Chuong Duong Bridge. The Chuong Duong Bridge completed in1985 is a major river road bridge in Hanoi. It is 1,213m long and has 2 lanes in each direction for vehicles up to 80 tons.

It’s a very busy area by the river and the main road skirting this side of the city. It is buzzing with every day life and the traffic is in abundance. We leave the river by turning into the French Quarter which leads into the Old Quarter where we are staying. Walked off our feet, we head direct to the hotel.

There is now no need to go to Hong Kong for the purpose of obtaining our Chinese Visa so we have made the decision to head direct to China. As we are off to Halong Bay tomorrow, we make use of the rest of the day planning the next part of our trip. Once back at the hotel we plonk ourselves at the computers in reception and begin the task. A few hours of research later, we have booked our flights to China for Saturday, 13th April. A bit pricey we thought but later discovered that it’s the Shanghai Grand Prix on Sunday 14th!!!! Oh well ! We also cancel the hotel reservation made to secure our application for the visa and book into a Holiday Inn in Hangzhou, recommended by Toby – the friend and ex-work colleague who is there at the moment. We further investigate the Hawaii part of the trip (in three weeks time, when we will meet up with Dave) and do costings on the flights and hotel reservations – more money that we’ve spent in a long time, lol! After printing off our required paperwork we crash out in the room and prepare for Halong Bay. It’s then a take out KFC before bed.

Thu, 11th Apr: Overnight Cruise @ Halong Bay
We rise and shine early today for our 8.30am pick up (YAWN!) arriving at the Marina in Halong Bay at 12.30pm. Halong Bay … one of the new wonders of the world! It’s a short wait before boarding the boat and commencing our ‘Heritage Discovery – 2 day/1 night – A Class Cruise’. Our experience of the serene magic of the world famous Halong Bay is on a boat built in traditional and elegant style. With 12 tastefully furnished cabins, a topside bar, a gourmet restaurant and a relaxed sun deck, extraordinary levels of service, our 2 day cruise is one of style.

Ha Long Bay is a UNESCO World Heritage site and features thousands of limestone karsts and isles in various sizes and shapes. The bay has a 120 kilometre long coastline and is approximately 1,553 square kilometres in size with 1969 islets. The bay consists of a dense cluster of 1,969 limestone monolithic islands, each topped with thick jungle vegetation, which rise spectacularly from the ocean. There are two bigger islands, Tuan Chau and Cat Ba, that have permanent inhabitants and a number of wonderful beaches on the smaller islands. Many of the islands have acquired their names as a result of interpretation of their unusual shapes. Birds and animals including bantams, antelopes, monkeys, and iguanas also live on some of the islands. Another specific feature of Halong Bay is the abundance of lakes inside the limestone islands.

Some of the islands support floating villages of fishermen, who ply the shallow waters for 200 species of fish and 450 different kinds of molluscs. A community of around 1600 people live in four fishing villages. They live on floating houses and are sustained by capture fishing and marine aquaculture. Originally there was only one fishing village, now there are about ten.

Once on board, we are given welcome drinks and checked in to our cabin and immediately set sail through the Bay while lunch is served and acquainting ourselves with our new friends. There are 25 of us on board this trip and it’s a nice varied crowd. There is a family from Malaysia, a young group from Brisbane and another from Sweden. Peter, our guide, encourages us to take our places at the dining room tables for lunch and we are sharing with a lovely couple from Belgium (Yvon and Chantel) and another from Montreal (Frederica and Simon). Before lunch is served, we are checked into our cabins. Our home for the night is Room 204 on the top floor and we are pleasantly surprised.

Lunch is the start of an abundance of food for the next two days … WOW! The trip certainly starts as soon as you board the boat. As we dine, we are already cruising to our first destination; a floating fishing village. Nestled amongst the huge limestone rocks the village does indeed float and is anchored in place – Peter explains that they roam around the waters and are not always in situ here. Underneath the ‘homes’ are the fishing nets … there is even a school here. It really is amazing to see how these people live, far away from the land and you do wonder just how little they must know about the world outside of here in Vietnam let alone the rest of the world!

Here we also take a paddle boat to get a little closer to the homes, the caves and the routes under the rocks. We learn that the 1997 James Bond film Tomorrow Never Dies was filmed here and it certainly is reminiscent of the film … the scene here is where James and Wai Lin attempt to chase down Elliot Carver played by Jonathan Pryce!

Back on the boat we cruise through more dramatic scenery before anchoring for the night in the calm water surrounded by beautiful islets. It’s so remote, calm and relaxing as we float here and enjoy ‘sunset drinks’ (although there is no sun to be seen as it’s very cloudy today!). Neil and some others have fun diving off the boat for an early evening swim before heading inside as it becomes dark.

Back in the dining room it’s a cooking demonstration (making spring rolls) before dinner which is a sumptuous affair before whiling away the rest of the evening with good music and conversation before literally falling into bed.

Fri, 12th Apr: May De Ville Old Quarter Hotel, Hanoi
The engine wakes us up at 6.30am as it commences its cruise to our next location. We need to be up anyway for the early 7.00am breakfast. The cruise is, as we learn, a very well-oiled organised affair. As soon as we have we have dropped anchor and on finishing our breakfast we board the tender which takes us over to the Sung Sot Cave (Amazing Cave) to explore.

Situated in the centre of this UNESCO World Heritage area, the Sung Sot is on Bo Hon Island and is one of the finest and widest grottoes of Ha Long Bay. Ascending to the grotto, the way is covered by trees and foliage, and consists of great paved stone blocks. The path is quite steep and is lined with shady trees and we arrive at the first of the cave’s two chambers. The outer chamber is square and the ceiling is approximately 30 m high. The walls are almost perfectly smooth and generate a variety of colours that blend with the setting of the area. Many stalactites hang from the high ceiling, with numerous possible forms and shapes. The path to the inner chamber known as the ‘serene castle’ is approximately 3m wide. It is standing here at the entrance that we are truly AMAZED!!!!The chamber is HUGE with many formations. There is a side entrance which is approximately 6m in height and the light reflected from the moving water outside causes the formations inside the chamber to seemingly come alive. The chamber is so immense it could contain thousands of people at one time. At the deepest point of the grotto, a “royal garden” appears with a clear pond and a seemingly fascinating landscape of mountains. Many birds and plants (benjamin figs, cycads and centenary banyan trees) live here. On nice days groups of monkeys might arrive in search of fruit but not today:-( There is no doubt that this cave was ‘amazing’. However, the visit was somewhat spoilt by far too many people visiting at the same time 😦

Back down at the wharf we board the boat for the short cruise to Ti Top beach at one of the bigger limestone islands. Ti Top wins kudos for its quiet and airy atmosphere, its clean and clear waters, as well as its alluring landscape. It is here where a short trek to the top of the island gives you an overview of Halong Bay. The 442 step climb up to the viewpoint is truly rewarding and well worth the effort. After time on the beach, we return to the boat for lunch and the cruise back to the mainland. Like the well-oiled machine it is, the cruise back takes place whilst we pack, check out and have lunch. We disembark promptly at the harbour in Halong city, jump on the shuttle bus … we get on as quickly as possible so that we get more comfortable seats than we did on our journey here!!!! Shattered, we embark on the long 4hr journey back to the hotel and, in between nodding off, we reflect on a gorgeous couple of days at one of the new wonders of the world.

We are first to be dropped off – thankfully – and, once in our room we shower and chill out before lone last venture out into the night. A lovely evening was had as we dined at City View Cafe, a rooftop restaurant overlooking Hoan Kiem Lake. Here we enjoy great views of the city, a nice drink and a lovely meal in the open air away from the hustle bustle and noise below. It was very pleasant as we chatted about moving on and how, 7 months into our travels, we are having to start thinking about travel arrangements over the final few months and how they will fit into the final route home to England …

One last stroll around the Old Quarter amongst the hawkers and the traffic takes us to one of the street bars which spill into the roads that are just not wide enough anyway! It is here we sit on the small stools crouched over the little ‘table’ and just watch the Vietnamese world go by … you just couldn’t explain this to anybody. It’s another one of those delights you would have to experience personally. It’s vibrant, bustling and ever changing … from the locals being dropped off after a day at the local market to the hawkers and vendors selling their wares, to the abundance of mopeds and taxis driving by in every direction imaginable lol, and much much more. Add to this the sounds … the smells … the sights … it’s wonderful and fantastic all at the same time.

Sat, 13th April: WOW! it’s been 7 months today …

Good Bye Vietnam 😦
Hello China 🙂

Our one hour journey to the airport takes us out of the city, out over the Red River and past the countryside encompassing the abundance of sights here. My words cannot get this over enough but I try … the traffic OMG! All the usual vehicles but bike bikes bikes with all you can pile on including people, animals and provisions … men taking a pee wherever they like … the workers in the paddy fields … tall narrow buildings built so as to limit the amount of ground tax required – built upwards to accommodate extended family – a floor for each – with garden balconies high up in the air … the single gravestones and tombs in the middle of the fields … the odd animal here and there – that is except for the caged birds which they like to have hanging outside their homes/businesses … mobile businesses on every street corner – key cutting, shoe repairs, barbers, bike maintenance, food food food. We’ve embraced Vietnam … and Vietnam has embraced us!